A trench coat in wool gabardine

by Ladulsatina
A trench coat in wool gabardine

Filippo and I went for a walk around Lake Como last Sunday and we finally managed to take some pictures of my new trench coat. I finished sewing it in September and, despite having worn it a lot over this autumn, I hadn’t managed to get it photographed yet.

Ladulsatina Blog di cucito - ho cucito un trench in gabardine di lana - profilo

I designed and drafted it last spring at school, over the professional Pattern Making and Dressmaking course I attended at Afol Moda in Milan. I made a toile to test the fit of the garment, with the help of my teacher.

Then I had dropped it for some months. I started sewing it in July, in this beautiful olive-green wool gabardine, I bought at a local shop, Beviltex Tessuti (they have beautiful fabrics…I bought the fabric for my elegant blue coat here too).

Ladulsatina Blog di cucito - ho cucito un trench in gabardine di lana - fronte aperto

Ladulsatina Blog di cucito - ho cucito un trench in gabardine di lana - fronte aperto

Ladulsatina Blog di cucito - ho cucito un trench in gabardine di lana - fronte aperto

Ladulsatina Blog di cucito - ho cucito un trench in gabardine di lana - lato aperto

Ladulsatina Blog di cucito - ho cucito un trench in gabardine di lana - dietro aperto

Ladulsatina Blog di cucito - ho cucito un trench in gabardine di lana - fronte aperto

Ladulsatina Blog di cucito - ho cucito un trench in gabardine di lana - fronte aperto

When it was almost done, I dropped this sewing project again because I didn’t like the lining I had chosen (it was a simple ivory viscose lining).

In September I finally came across a lining that I liked matching with this wool gabardine. It’s a brown/bronze silk, with a tribal black pattern, I bought at Emme Pi Tessuti in Milan. Actually I was not 100% satisfied with my choice, however I wanted to finish this project in time for autumn, so I gave it a try!

Ladulsatina Blog di cucito - ho cucito un trench in gabardine di lana - dettaglio fodera

The trench coat I designed is made out of raglan sleeves with epaluettes, double-breasted front with buttons (partially hidden by waist-lenght flaps), belt, vertical pockets and back vent.

Ladulsatina Blog di cucito - ho cucito un trench in gabardine di lana - fronte chiuso

Ladulsatina Blog di cucito - ho cucito un trench in gabardine di lana - lato chiuso

Ladulsatina Blog di cucito - ho cucito un trench in gabardine di lana - dietro chiuso

I sewed and topstitched everything (except for the flaps, that are not topstitched). I sewed dark brown buttons up, I bought at Merceria Guffanti in Milan.

I used a light knit interfacing to reinforce the facings and the collar, because this fabric was very fluid and a knit interfacing could have helped to not stiffen the fabric too much. Anyway, if I could go back, I would have used a light cotton interfacing, at least on the collar (I’d like to have it a little stiffer).

Ladulsatina Blog di cucito - ho cucito un trench in gabardine di lana - dettaglio colletto fronte

Ladulsatina Blog di cucito - ho cucito un trench in gabardine di lana - dettaglio colletto lato

Ladulsatina Blog di cucito - ho cucito un trench in gabardine di lana - dettaglio lato

Ladulsatina Blog di cucito - ho cucito un trench in gabardine di lana - dettaglio polso

Ladulsatina Blog di cucito - ho cucito un trench in gabardine di lana - dettaglio tasca

Ladulsatina Blog di cucito - ho cucito un trench in gabardine di lana - dettaglio doppio petto

Ladulsatina Blog di cucito - ho cucito un trench in gabardine di lana - dettaglio doppio spalla

I like this trench a lot when I keep it open, less when it’s buttoned up. Maybe because the sleeves are a little bit too loose compared to the garment silhouette. If I went back, I would tighten the sleeves or make the trench looser in order to better balance the garment.

This style issue aside, I’m satisfied with this sewing project and I’m happy to have a new trench coat, more elegant than that one in cotton I already have in my wardrobe. As I said, I’ve worn it a lot over these months!

Ladulsatina Blog di cucito - ho cucito un trench in gabardine di lana - fronte trench

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12 comments

Beth (SunnyGal Studio) 16 Novembre 2017 - 18:28

that is super cute. looks great on you and the lining seems perfect.

Reply
LaDulsaTina 21 Novembre 2017 - 10:32

Thank you Beth!! <3

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PsychicSewerKathleen 16 Novembre 2017 - 23:51

I think your Trench Coat is beautiful! Love the design, drape and lining. That topstitching is enviable 🙂 It suits you to a Tee! I can’t believe you designed this pattern yourself – you should put it on the market!

Reply
LaDulsaTina 21 Novembre 2017 - 10:32

Thank you so much!! <3 Maybe one day 🙂

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Clare 17 Novembre 2017 - 0:20

Thats really wonderful – the buttonholes are so well done and the topstitching is perfect Congratulations!!

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LaDulsaTina 21 Novembre 2017 - 10:22

Thank you so much Clare!! <3

Reply
Sarah 19 Novembre 2017 - 12:21

I too am quite late to sewing. I only hope one day I can do topstitching as good as this!

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LaDulsaTina 21 Novembre 2017 - 10:21

Thank you! <3 Try a blindstitch/compensation presser foot for topstitching. It helps to save a lot of time and to perfectly topstitch!

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Wednesday Weekly #110 – Helen's Closet 22 Novembre 2017 - 21:44

[…] impressive trench coat from […]

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Lia 13 Dicembre 2017 - 2:43

This makes my heart sing. What a beautiful coat!

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Paula 28 Marzo 2019 - 14:25

Congratulations! Your trench coat is very stylish and the finishing looks perfect! I hope I’get to this level someday! 🙂

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Sunshine 7 Gennaio 2020 - 1:16

This is lovely

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