Sewing with jersey, my first experience: a hoodie! Undercover Hood by Papercut Patterns

by Ladulsatina
my first experience: a hoodie! Undercover Hood by Papercut Patterns

It’s been a while since I decided to try to sew knit fabric. I also asked Silvia of Sewing Princess some suggestions (thank you Silvia 🙂 ). She suggested me not to start with a too light-weight knit fabric, just not to get discouraged at the very first try. Given that I needed a new hoodie, instead of buying it I’ve followed her advice and I tried to do a test with a medium-weight jersey.

Ladulsatina sewing - Undercover Hood Papercut Patter hoodie lateral hood

Ladulsatina sewing - Undercover Hood Papercut Patter hoodie front

Ladulsatina sewing - Undercover Hood Papercut Patter hoodie lateral

The pattern is Undercover Hood by Papercut Patterns. I sewed the version A (the hoodie version) up.

Ladulsatina sewing - Undercover Hood Papercut Patter hoodie front hood

Ladulsatina sewing - Undercover Hood Papercut Patter hoodie back

Ladulsatina sewing - Undercover Hood Papercut Patter hoodie

I used a beautiful cotton jersey (maybe Milano stitch jersey, but I’m not sure) bought on Supercut.it last spring. It’s a double face fabric, very nice on both sides. I took advantage of this feature using the grey side for the front, the back, the sleeves, the front pocket, the hood and the claret side for the sleeve cuffs, the hem cuff and the hood’s lining. In this way I tried to create a contrast to make the hoodie a little bit more particular.

Ladulsatina sewing - Undercover Hood Papercut Patter hoodie - hood details

Ladulsatina sewing - Undercover Hood Papercut Patter hoodie - pocket and cuffdetails

For the first time I used a 4-thread overlock stitch, sewing most of the seams with my overlocking machine directly. And…wow! Everything was fast and simple. Furthermore the inside finishing is very beautiful and professional, it could seem a hoodie bought in a shop.

Ladulsatina sewing - Undercover Hood Papercut Patter hoodie - inside finishing

Ladulsatina sewing - Undercover Hood Papercut Patter hoodie - inside finishing details

It’s been my first time even with twin needle. I used it for the front pocket. I followed this tutorial (in Italian) and some advices I was given at the shop in Milan in which I bought the needle:

  • Move the twin needle position to the center (stitch width n. 5 on my Elna Explore 340, on other machines it could be different…read the manual of your machine for right instructions) to avoid it hitting the foot and breaking. Instead I used the usual 2,5 stitch length.
  • Choose the stitch pattern n. 1 (the classic straight stitch)
  • Do some thread tension tests to avoid the “hump” between the two parallel seams. The shopkeeper told me to choose between 2,5 and 3. After some tests I chose 2,5.

I made a little mistake on the sides of the front pocket. I sewed with the twin needle too far from the lateral edges of the pocket so I had to add a third seam in order to have the pocket well clung to the front of the hoodie. Let’s think of it as a creative 3-thread stitch!

Ladulsatina sewing - Undercover Hood Papercut Patter hoodie - pocket

Ladulsatina sewing - Undercover Hood Papercut Patter hoodie - pocket details

After having a fitting with the hoodie basted, I made some little modifications to the pattern to have the hoodie a little more fitted: I cut 2 mm off both the sides from the cuff to the hem, 1 cm off each side of the sleeve cuffs and 2 cm off each side of the hem cuff.

I haven’t inserted a drawstring because I haven’t found one with the right colour yet. I’ll add it in the future.

Ladulsatina sewing - Undercover Hood Papercut Patter hoodie - hood details closeup

Ladulsatina sewing - Undercover Hood Papercut Patter cover hoodie

I’m very proud of my first experiment with jersey, 4-thread overlock stitch and twin needle! I think that new experiments will come out soon. And I love my brand new hoodie! It’s the best hoodie I have in my wardrobe for sure.

Ladulsatina sewing - Undercover Hood Papercut Patter hoodie

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15 comments

Annika 22 Settembre 2015 - 11:15

Be warned: Sewing jersey is absolutely addictive. I, at least, love it way more than sewing with wovens as I get to wear what I make much more often than when I sew a more formal garment. Love your hoodie.

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LaDulsaTina 23 Settembre 2015 - 10:20

I think I will get a jersey-addicted soon…you’re definitely right!! So fast and so easy to wear in every occasion! Love it! I already have some new project in mind for next winter 😉

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Sasha 22 Settembre 2015 - 14:00

Annika is totally right sewing with jersey is addictive!!! E favolosa! hai fatto un lavoro splendido … non ci posso credere … il primo lavoro con il jersey!!!! mastaischerzando è perfetta! you overachiever !!!! xx

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LaDulsaTina 23 Settembre 2015 - 10:23

Ma grazie!!! <3 Anch'io sono rimasta stupita del risultato, non ci volevo credere che fosse così semplice e veloce! Soldi ben spesi per la tagliacuci!! E penso che mi sono definitivamente innamorata del jersey 🙂

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Jillian - SewUnravelled 25 Settembre 2015 - 11:22

Martina, it looks absolutely wonderful! It’s so perfect it looks like it came ready to wear from a sportswear store. Fantastic work! You will completely nail the Cora tights. They truly were very easy 🙂

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LaDulsaTina 25 Settembre 2015 - 12:03

Thank you so much Jillian! 🙂 I hope to find the right fabric and make them soon. I’ll let you know!

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juls 27 Settembre 2015 - 1:31

definitely looks like it could have come from a shop and the third row of stitching is a nice artistic detail 😉 It looks sooo comfy I’m sure you’ll enjoy wearing it loads.

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LaDulsaTina 28 Settembre 2015 - 9:56

Thank you so much, Juls!! 🙂 Yes, it’s very comfy, I’m wearing it a lot, even for running…what a satisfaction 😉

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Nina 28 Settembre 2015 - 15:52

Oh, I love this! I haven’t yet sewn with jersey but am so impressed (and inspired) by how smart and professional this looks!

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LaDulsaTina 28 Settembre 2015 - 16:08

Thank you Nina!! 🙂 I’m really surprised of how this hoodie came out…I love it too! You have to try to sew with jersey, it’s not so hard as I thought. I’m going to make new knit projects with my serger over next winter 🙂

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Jen 4 Ottobre 2015 - 14:27

This looks great! And a brilliant result for your first time working with jersey. I still haven’t sewn with jersey yet but really am going to soon!

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LaDulsaTina 6 Ottobre 2015 - 17:04

Thank you Jen! 🙂 you have to try it…I had a lot of fun sewing with jersey 😉 Let me know…

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Delphi Layered Maxi Dress by Named Clothing in cotton jersey 14 Luglio 2016 - 18:14

[…] finished the hem with serger and then I sewed it up with the twin needle on my sewing machine (here you can find which settings I use with twin […]

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Lisa 16 Luglio 2018 - 8:03

Very nice pattern! This hoodie is looking awesome. I would love to try this. Thanks for sharing.

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LaDulsaTina 26 Luglio 2018 - 17:58

Thank you Lisa! 🙂

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