Self-drafted blazer

After about three months off, I’ve finally managed to post a new sewing project!
The outfit I’m wearing is made up of a blazer, a basic jersey top (that I both designed and sewed on my own) and an old pair of black trousers I restyled.

ladulsatina - Sewing blog - Self-drafted blazer - outfit

I’m not a big fan of blazers, I basically never wear them.
The last time I wore a blazer/tailored jacket was the day I graduated, ten years ago, probably. Anyway, I’ve always felt like having a nice blazer to wear in those few occasions I have to dress up and be a little bit more formal.

ladulsatina - Sewing blog - Self-drafted blazer - front

I have had the chance to sew it this year, thanks to the Pattern Cutting Course I’ve been attending at Afol Moda in Milan. One of the projects I had to make was the pattern of a classic women’s blazer.
I designed the model and drafted the pattern at school. Then I sewed the blazer up on my own at home.

I used some vintage fabrics I had at home: a beautiful light-weight dark grey wool fabric by an Italian mill and a light pink silk for a lining. I used a scrap of a black woollen cloth for the outer collar stand.

ladulsatina - Sewing blog - Self-drafted blazer - collar detail

ladulsatina - Sewing blog - Self-drafted blazer - lining

ladulsatina - Sewing blog - Self-drafted blazer - lapel detail

ladulsatina - Sewing blog - Self-drafted blazer - lining detail

It has been a very good project to train fitting better above all. It has been very useful to better understand the differences of my body shape compared to the standard size (size 42 in Italy should be 6 in the UK and 10 in the US). I drafted the blazer pattern in an Italian size 42 and then I fit it to my measurements. Even if I’m almost precisely a size 42, I had to modify the pattern a little bit to adapt it to my body shape. I modified both the test I made in cotton fabric and the blazer in wool (the wool has a different drape and performance compared to cotton).

For instance, I’m a little bit shorter than the average height (I’m 163 cm) and I had to shorten the jacket and sleeve length (as usual).
My waistline is shorter than the standard one in size 42 and this created a hump on the back neckline and some creases on the back waistline. You could try to eliminate these faults shortening the pattern (by 2 cm in my case) on the waistline or cutting some cm’s on the back neckline and shoulder seam (both on the neckline and the armhole in my case) if you have already cut the main fabric. In this case you have to adapt the neckline, the armhole and the collar stand, because they have changed due to the shoulder alteration.
As usual, I had to rotate the sleeve a little bit towards the front of the bodice (1 cm) because my posture leans slightly forward.
In the end, it was a little bit tight on the hips and this caused some other creases on the waistline and hip line, so I widened it a little bit.

ladulsatina - Sewing blog - Self-drafted blazer - side

ladulsatina_sewiladulsatina - Sewing blog - Self-drafted blazer - back

Sewingwise, the more complex steps have been the welt pockets (above all those diagonal lower pockets close to the seam of the side panel) and the vent in the sleeves. However I got by!

ladulsatina_sewiladulsatina - Sewing blog - Self-drafted blazer - welt pocket detail

ladulsatina_sewiladulsatina - Sewing blog - Self-drafted blazer - sleeve vent detail

I really like how it came out! It could be improved in some details. However, seen that it’s my first jacket, I’m super satisfied! I like it in its casual version, with the collar up.

ladulsatina - Sewing blog - Self-drafted blazer

The basic top in jersey is a very easy and fast project made in an afternoon (I needed something simple after sewing a blazer). It’s made up of a very light silk jersey.
I like the bottom of the top, instead I’m not satisfied by the upper part at all. I think I’m gonna change it, the armhole and the shoulders’ defect above all, in the up coming days.

ladulsatina_sewiladulsatina - Sewing blog - Self-drafted blazer - jersey top

ladulsatina_sewiladulsatina - Sewing blog - Self-drafted blazer - jersey top

In the end I restyled an old pair of trousers, that I had worn a lot over the past years. I tightened the legs and shortened the hem. Two simple variations that have made them more trendy and right for my body.

ladulsatina_sewiladulsatina - Sewing blog - Self-drafted blazer - restyled pants

Here is the final outfit!

ladulsatina_sewiladulsatina - Sewing blog - Self-drafted blazer - formal outfit

17 Comments
  • Let's Get Sewing
    May 21, 2017

    Your blazer is amazing! It looks so smart and professional, to have drafted the pattern is incredible.

  • Kelley
    April 12, 2017

    Hi Martina,
    As part of my April column about sewing trends for Sew, Mama, Sew!, I’d love to share one of your projects. I will share one photo and link to both your project and your main blog address. (you can see past trends posts here: http://www.sewmamasew.com/?s=sewing+trends

    the post is scheduled for April 15. As per my agreement with SMS i do need your express permission to use one of your photos, so if you’d like to be included, please respond ASAP.

    thank you!

    • LaDulsaTina
      April 13, 2017

      Hi Kelley! Thank you so much…yes, you can use my pictures for your post, of course 🙂

  • PsychicSewerKathleen
    April 10, 2017

    Beautiful outfit Martina! I loved your jacket especially and quickly scrolled through your post to find out what pattern you had used and was amazed to discover you had designed it yourself. Beautiful! I’ve always been a fan of that look – jeans with a nice soft sleeveless top and blazer on top. It’s a silhouette you suit to a T. Congratulations on making an entire outfit that is just lovely on you.

    • LaDulsaTina
      April 13, 2017

      Thank you so much!! 🙂 I’m not a fan of very formal outfits, so I tried to make it a little more informal. I think it came out nice and it could be perfect in every situation, especially at work…Formal, but not too formal 🙂

  • Sonja
    April 7, 2017

    Great jacket. The pockets are very stylish and the pink lining is very feminine.

    • LaDulsaTina
      April 13, 2017

      Thank you! The pink lining was a real find…you are right, it gives a more feminine look to this kind of jacket!

  • poppykettle
    April 7, 2017

    Love it. The blazer is just so smart – I especially like the collar left standing up so you can see the step in the collar! The angled welt pockets are super cool, too.

    • LaDulsaTina
      April 13, 2017

      Thank you so much!! The collar and welt pockets are the details I prefer too 🙂

  • Juls
    April 6, 2017

    Martina, I love reading your posts and think all your makes are super! I knew you were working behind the scenes doing some fabulous project and I was right… this was worth waiting to see it pop up on Instagram. Love this blazer and love seeing your self made wardrobe grow. 🙂

    • LaDulsaTina
      April 13, 2017

      Ohh thank you so much Juls! <3 I have been working on sewing projects I can really use every day and I can mix with my current wardrobe, lately. So it takes me a little bit more time and patience to think about what I really need and to sew the garments in a good way, but I'm very happy and I think it's worth waiting for them too 🙂

  • Beth (SunnyGal Studio)
    April 5, 2017

    love that jacket – great details.

    • LaDulsaTina
      April 13, 2017

      Thank you so much Beth!

  • Sewing Princess
    April 5, 2017

    Meravigliosa, meravigliosa. La fodera è troppo bella…Poi magari ti faccio un paio di domande sulla costruzione della giacca.

    • LaDulsaTina
      April 13, 2017

      Grazie Silvia! 🙂 Alla fine non siamo riuscite a parlare della giacca…la prossima volta sicuramente, spero presto! Però ti ho fatto provare il cappottino 😉

  • Edyta
    April 5, 2017

    Really like it!
    Big precision, nice shape and pretty colour of lining. Good!

    • LaDulsaTina
      April 13, 2017

      Thank you so much! 🙂

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