This is an experiment I’ve wanted to do for a while! My starting idea was to make a jersey mini-dress using a “twisting” technique which I came across on Pattern Magic by Tomoko Nakamichi books. However, before sewing the dress, I wanted to test this technique making a top to match with jeans.
I come across the “Nejiri” or “twist” technique both in Pattern Magic Vol. 1 (pgs. 68-73) and in Pattern Magic Stretch Fabrics (pgs. 86-87). I used the instructions for a Nejiri pullover included in Pattern Magic Vol. 1 from pag. 71 to pag. 72 (I’ve already used this book to make the central draping on my green playsuit and dress).
I didn’t use the block pattern included in the book. Instead I used a block pattern for stretch fabrics I made on the basis of my measurements. This block pattern didn’t include any ease and, after a first test garment turned out too tight, I decided to add a 2 cm ease on each sides both on the bust and the waist (I didn’t add ease on hips in order to have the top tighter in that part of my body).
I followed the instructions (even if I moved the side seams horizontally by 15 cm instead of 10 as suggested). I basted the top to check if the alterations were right and then I sewed it with a 4-thread overlock stitch on my serger. The fabric I used is a double jersey, cotton on the wrong side and nylon on the right side.
The neckline is turn down toward the wrong side of the top. In this way the finishing isn’t visible from the outside. The hidden side of the neckline is finished by the serger.
I made a cut on the sleeves under the elbow in order to reduce the fabric waste (being a twisted kimono top, there was a lot of waste fitting the two big pieces on the fabric together).
I topstitched the hem of the top and the sleeves with a stretch twin needle (I haven’t got a coverstitch machine yet, but I’d like to buy it soon). I’ve never had problems with twin needle so far and I have to say that this finishing looks quite professional. Anyway I’d like to speed my sewing up and have a nice/professional finishing on the wrong side too.
As you can see, I started to fix the holes in my jeans instead of throw them away when torn!
I rather like this top, I don’t mind it at all, even if it can be improved. I really like the idea of making a jersey dress with this technique. The twist/drape would probably be better with a very stretchy knit fabric. I’ll keep you up-to-date!