Handmade Gift #1: a men’s shirt

by Ladulsatina
Handmade Gift #1: a men's shirt

This Christmas I made two handmade presents. The first one is this men’s shirt for Filippo. I sewed it up with a Etro‘s cotton tartan remnant and bronze snap buttons.

Ladulsatina - Camicia da uomo handmade scozzese - Negroni Shirt - Colette Patterns _All

The base model is Negroni Shirt by Colette Patterns that I altered with a series of stylistic and fit modifications to get the final model.

Ladulsatina - Camicia da uomo handmade scozzese - Negroni Shirt - Colette Patterns _ Fronte

Ladulsatina - Camicia da uomo handmade scozzese - Negroni Shirt - Colette Patterns _ Retro

At first I made a muslin. After having checked the finished garment measurements on the pattern, I chose a smaller size than Filippo’s standard size. I chose a M and I lengthened the front and back bodice by 2,5 centimeters because Filippo is very tall.

Then I altered:

  • the pockets’ shape (triangular instead of rounded)
  • the collar: I changed the convertible collar provided in the pattern with a classic two-piece shirt collar (collar + stand collar). I used the collar shape of a David Mayer Naman’s shirt that Filippo has in his wardrobe and I followed two tutorials on Male Pattern Boldness blog: tutorial-1 and tutorial-2.
  • the shirt front: I eliminated the two front facings and I sewed a new facing for right shirt front and a button placket for left shirt front. I followed this tutorial, again on Male Pattern Boldness blog.

Ladulsatina - Camicia da uomo handmade scozzese - Negroni Shirt - Colette Patterns _ Modifiche fronte

Furthermore I made other modifications on sleeves, yoke and cuffs, getting them narrower or wider as needed for a perfect fit.

Once made all the final modifications, I trasfered them on the paper pattern and I cut the tartan fabric. I followed this tutorial to match plaids. I cut outer yoke, cuffs and pockets flaps on the bias and the inner part of these pieces on the straight grain, as suggested in the tutorial.

Ladulsatina - Camicia da uomo handmade scozzese - Negroni Shirt - Colette Patterns _ polsino

I used a walking foot to sew the shirt up. This helped me to keep the stripes perfectly lined up. This tutorial on Cucicucicoo blog has been very helpful.

Ladulsatina - Camicia da uomo handmade scozzese - Negroni Shirt - Colette Patterns _ lato

To sum up, it has been a long and quite complex sewing project, but I’m very satisfied of the result and very happy that Filippo loves it!

Ladulsatina - Camicia da uomo handmade scozzese - Negroni Shirt - Colette Patterns

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